From Part 1 Cruise 2004 - Part 2

By 10:30 we had passed Caliach Point and headed south down passed Calgary Bay and inside of the Treshnish Isles. These are a group of ‘geologically interesting’ islands, with one of them, Bac Mor, given the alternative name of The Dutchman’s Cap, see photo opposite.

As we approached Staffa, the rain set in again. So we circled around off Fingals Cave, trying to avoid a shallow rock shown on the chart, whilst watching a party of tourists walking around to the cave. Not ideal photographing weather!

Decided to push on in the rain for Iona, still motoring with very little wind.

As it was still tipping it down, we went into Bull Hole to anchor overnight, rather than do any exploring ashore. It was a bit shallow at the approach, with the depth alarm getting a bit excited, but we quietly worked our way up the inlet and anchored in amongst the other moorings. Maggie retired below to read, whilst I fished unsuccessfully in the rain until it was bedtime.

Day 5 – Wednesday 11^th August

The rain had stopped when we awoke, but left it very misty. We set off after breakfast and went over to Martyrs’ Bay on Iona, avoiding the shallow patch in between. Went ashore and had a walk around the Cathedral and other ruins in the morning, with the sun shining. Forgot to take the camera!!

At 12:30 we departed from Iona, to travel along the south coast of Mull and across to the Scottish slate museum at Easdale. By the time we had negotiated our way through the shortcut past Erraid Island and the entrance to Tinker’s Hole, heavy rain set in again. Big black showers slowly moved past, often obscuring our view of the high ground at the South of Mull.

Our spirits were lifted though by the presence of a solitary Minke whale as we passed along the south coast of Mull.

There had been large groups of Razorbills and Guillemots around, indicating there were shoals of small fish near the surface, often chased up by mackerel. These in turn are chased by dolphins and porpoise, and we had seen the occasional small porpoise. But then this much larger beastie appeared. It surfaced close to us about 6 or 7 times before continuing on its way. It was confirmed as a Minke by the Irish Whale & Dolphin Group.

Dripping wet, we arrived in Easdale at 18:00 and anchored off the harbour at Seil. The rain cleared and soon we could see Mull appearing again from the gloom to the west.

We went ashore to Seil for a look around and had a nice meal in the restaurant.

Day 6 – Thursday 12^th August

After breakfast we went across to Easdale. The museum hadn’t opened yet, so we walked accompanied by a local dog around the island, past all of the old slate quarry workings. When we returned the museum had opened and we spent a very interesting hour looking round the various artefacts and reading the explanatory leaflets. A small museum, but well worth visiting.

We returned to the boat for lunch and a very embarrassing incident, which I’m not allowed to put in print. But next time you see Maggie, ask her why dinghies should not be tied with a ‘temporary knot’!

By 15:00 the tide has risen sufficiently for us to leave Easdale, via the NW entrance, and we head down to Craobh Marina – it was time for a shower!

Sails set, we went south down between Fladda and Dubh Sgeir in the company of a couple of other yachts. By the time we reached Ardluing buoy, the wind had freshened to F5-6 and it would have been a wet beat up to Craobh, so being on holiday we took the sails down and motored, which was quite wet enough. The marina was almost full, and as we couldn’t raise anyone on the VHF, we moored up to one of their hammerheads and waddled up to the marina office. They managed to give us a berth nearer to the marina buildings and once snuggled in, we set off for a shower and a meal in the pub. Whilst in the marina office I was advised that Crinan Yacht Services was the best place to get copper washers to fix a small leak from the fuel filter on the engine.

Day 7 – Friday 13^th August

Set off at 08:30 in order to catch the last of the tide through the Dorus Mor, enroute to Crinan.

Now we are not normally a superstitious family, but the GPS failed to pick-up any satellites – had Friday the 13^th struck?!

Despite fiddling about with the aerial (had it got too wet in the rain?) and the GPS unit itself, we had to resort to No1 eyeball navigation as our only alternative. As it was an easy coastal trip in sunshine, it wasn’t so difficult. But after breakfast we realised we hadn’t heard the Coastguard reading out the weather forecasts. In fact we hadn’t heard anything on the VHF all morning! Tried the handheld VHF and it was picking up chatter on Ch16, so the fixed VHF was on the blink as well. So we checked everything else, just in case bad things always happen in threes but it seemed like only two fatalities.

With the use of a temporary aerial, we got the VHF working again; it looked like only the aerial had packed up, not the radio itself.

At Crinan Yacht Services we topped up with diesel, water, milk and copper washers.

After fixing the leak on the fuel filter, which had been annoying me all week, and we set off again at 11:30 for Gigha.

As a pleasant change, the sun was splitting the sky and there wasn’t a breath of wind. So we motored down the coast, with all the hatches open and all the cushions and oilskins up on deck to dry out the interior of the boat, which was by this stage getting a bit musty and mildewed.

We arrived at Ardminish at 18:00, with the boat thoroughly spring cleaned and everything dry again.

This was the end of our first week. The plan for the 2^nd week was to spend the weekend at Gigha, then move across to explore Islay and Jura before returning to Bangor for the BYC Regatta on Saturday 21^st. As we were both involved with Battery duty, we planned to be back by Thursday evening.

Day 8 – Saturday 14^th

The sun was still shining, so we set off to explore the island on foot. We checked in the shop when they planned to close, so we could stock up on the way back, and then walked down to the gardens at Achamore House. Not knowing quite what size they were, we perhaps went through too quickly. Will take a bit more time to amble around next time.

Then we went on to South End Pier, where the ferry can tie up in adverse weather. From there we headed back via the hotel for a drink and then to the shop. Back on board we slumped after a late lunch and decided we had had enough of the sun over the last two days and snoozed down below for a couple of hours.

In the evening we ate at the restaurant at the Boathouse, returning to the boat for a lovely sunset.

Day 9 – Sunday 15^th

Decision time! The forecast for later in the week didn’t look good, with strong Southerly winds predicted. We phoned the Met Office and their prediction was for Irish Sea SE5-6 and Malin E/SE 4-5 on Tuesday/Wednesday, becoming S/SW strong to gale force on the Thursday.

After discussing possible routes home (Port Ellen/Ballycastle/Bangor or Rathlin/ Glenarm/Bangor, etc) we decided just to head down to Glenarm and then take the early tide to Bangor on Monday morning. Neither of us really fancied a long slog against strong winds down the North Channel.

So aiming to catch the start of the flood tide in the N. Channel at 18:00, we departed from Gigha at 13:45. There was a light southerly wind with rain, so we motored down towards the Mull of Kintyre, aiming to cross over to the Co Antrim shore once south of the Traffic Separation Scheme.

We passed the Mull around 18:30, when the tide should have turned, but it was still very bumpy in several places.

Once we were half way across the N. Channel, our stomachs had settled enough for some hot food and we made it alongside in Glenarm at 21:30. The Harbour Master was waiting for us, so we were able to pay up before he knocked off for the evening.

Day 10 – Monday 16th

We departed from Glenarm at 07:55 motoring, as there was very little wind. By 09:15 we had passed Muck Island and could see the Co Down coast. We arrived at our marina berth at 11:00, just as it started to rain again!

Total distance for the cruise was 190nm and the total distance including West Highland week was 415nm.